| Hermes Birkin, Hermes Kelly, Chanel flap, Bottega Veneta tote and Loewe tote |
Previously, there was the logo mania where people carried their logo laden bags proudly as a symbol status. Think Gucci, Dior, Louis Vuitton. Now the pendulum swung the other way where the most desired bags are devoid of any visible labels yet there are still instantly recognizable. Ever since the black canvas Prada bags hit the stands two decade ago, we've seen the astronomical rise of It bags.
Women who would never ever consider dropping £1K on a piece of clothing would not bat her eyelid on a similarly priced handbag. It doesn't matter if you've binged for a week and now, wearing a pair of designer skinny jeans made your legs look like a couple of chorizos, your handbags love you just the same. Tall, short, fat, thin, normal sized feet, pixie sized feet (moi).... you don't have to worry about all that when you purchase a handbag. Designers caught on to this and made handbags their bread and butter while trying to attract and lure customers to their clothes. Take the rising star, Sophie Hulme who is taking the world by storm with her eye catching handbags but she's a womenswear designer by trade.
My question is are these bags truly worth the money? I've read and heard from friends about their Anya Hindmarch shoulder bag that fell apart with very moderate use in less than a year or the popular Stella McCartney bag with the chain unraveling after 3 wears. The MulberryAlexa bag has nearly doubled its price since its introduction a few years ago despite the fact that the production has since moved to China and Turkey where the labor cost is far lower than in the UK.
The majority of these fashion houses are now owned by conglomerates namely, LVMH, Prada, Richemont and PPR. Only a handful are still privately owned - Chanel by Wertheimer, Armani and Hermes, to a certain degree. There's the urgency of creating the next It bag to drive sales, increase profit and minimize operating costs in order to appease the shareholders. The focus of these luxury conglomerates is predominantly short term rather than long term where quality and maintaining traditional craftsmanship are compromised in the name of profit.
Let's be a little more anal here and talk about the details. To me, details and a good finishing are true indicators of a well made bag. Say, if we place two bags side by side - a Mulberry and a Loewe with the same price point, say, approximately £800. The edges of a Loewe has been sanded down and applied with resin but the surface is smooth to touch unlike the Mulberry bags I'd handled. A leather interior requires more expense and work compared to fabric variety which shockingly even bags above £1100 are lined with these days.
The leather exterior on the newer Balenciaga bags seem so thin and dry, it felt like I was touching a piece of paper. There have been complaints of strap clips on the popular Proenza Schouler PS1 which are too weak to support the bag. I was shocked to see how much the coating on the hardware wears off despite minimal wear.
Is it unreasonable to expect my expensive designer bags to last at least a decade? I can't forget that gorgeous 30 year old Hermes Kelly I saw at a flea market in Paris in the late 90s. It was a testament to the incredible workmanship and the quality of the leather used at Hermes. The owner, I was told, paid 900 francs (approximately £625 in today's money) in the 60s and sold it to the shop owner for €2500. I've yet to see bags that look that good after being worn nearly everyday for 30 years AND has such a high resale value.
Call me a capitalist if you like but I hate the idea of flushing money down the drain after forking out an exorbitant amount for a consumer product just because it didn't last the distance. I'm feeling rather anti-IT bag these days. Three things come to mind whenever I feel the urge to plonk a hefty sum down - 1) quality of materials 2) workmanship 3) timeless design. So far, only 4 brands come to mind - Hermes, Chanel, Loewe and Bottega Veneta. What are your thoughts on It bags?



















