Travel: Epidavros

We took a little side trip to see the ancient threater in Epidavros. It was built in the 4th century B.C (I use the term B.C differently - Before Children). I guess the word vintage can be used here unlike certain stores I've been to which misappropriate the word to represent clothes that are older than 4 years of age. The accoustics is incredible, thanks to a few tourists  who were brave enough to belt out a few songs to confirm the fact.




Lil Bro and hubby were particularly enthusiastic about exploring the theater and the surrounding points of interest. What I loved the most was the splendid setting for the site where cherry blossoms were in full bloom and the stunning mountains act as the backdrop.

The kids were soon bored with the ruins. Little L who took the role of jiejie (Chinese term for elder sister) rather seriously decided to teach her di-di (younger brother or in this case, a shortened term for younger cousin) about the story of Adam and Eve. Note the bored look or should I say, the look of desperation on  Little Z's face when he realised he couldn't escape the clutches of his older cousin.

When I suggested a photo of the two of them, the little rascals insisted on the "prayer" pose because "it's Easter" and "Jesus died".

Travel: Nafplio

Traveling solo couldn't be more different compared with my current trip accompanied by 2 kids and 3 other adults. 14 years ago, it was just me and my trustworthy backpack arriving at Nafplio and trying to navigate through the city from the bus station clutching a dog-eared Lonely Planet guidebook. It was a hot day and I was wearing my younger brother's old Levi's 501 jeans which I had hacked off to make a pair of shorts. Lunch was often something I picked up from the market - A fresh loaf of bread, a carafe of red wine, some cheese, Kalamata olives and cured meat, eaten on the balcony of my pension while looking down at the busy pedestrian street below.

I spent a day exploring the cobbled lanes with no particular destination in mind. I remember vividly coming to a halt when I spied an interesting antique/knick knack store and came out an hour later triumphantly holding my first Greek souvenir - a locally weaved carpet with a motif native to the region of Argolis. I managed to cram it into my tiny backpack and lugged it around everywhere until I reached my base, a hostel in Athens. To this day, seeing the carpet evokes a nostalgic feeling of my younger and more carefree days.

Fast forward to the present day. We arrived in a VW mini van with my usually mild tempered brother cussing worse than an old sailor after spending the day narrowly avoiding Greek drivers who happily swerved to the other lane when overtaking with total disregard for their own mortality. My sister in law had been vomiting sporadically throughout the journey and Little L promptly threw up just before we got there. Note to self: make sure those who suffer from motion sickness do NOT sit at the back of the van.

Nafplio is easily one of the prettiest towns in Greece, maintaining an elegant facade. There's no denying the fact that unemployment rate is sitting at an all time high of 12%. A retailer I spoke to said that the unofficial rate is closer to 40% which is evidenced by the omnipresent graffiti.

Many tavernas and estiatorios line the streets in the old town but the best (in my humble opinion) is Ta Fanaria (το φανάρια ναύπλιο) on 13 Staikopoulou where the locals tend to gravitate to. They don't really cater to tourists but the owner/chef, a quiet man with an impressive girth would always make sure we were served. I was invited into his kitchen to check out the daily menu. We went back 3 times and left completely satisfied. The menu changes from day to day and the prices are far less than the other tavernas I've seen. Furthermore, there are so many gelaterias to choose from. The kids (ok, and the adults too) had a ball trying out all the different flavors.

The supersweet navel sized oranges which peel like mandarins are in abundance everywhere. At 0.99 cents a kilo, they're cheap and juicy. Orange trees in orchards, gardens and side walk are literally heavy with fruit and rotting on the ground. We were told that it was far cheaper to let them rot than hire people to pick them! What a waste.

Nafplio was a stronghold of the Venetians in 1388 for 150 years before the Ottomans managed to snatch the seaport from them. The Venetians regained the city again in 1685 and also built the Palamidi fortress on the hilltop which overlooks the Argolic gulf and the city. The buildings in Nafplio retains its Venetian flavor and many are well preserved to this day.

Lil Bro was practically hyperventilating at the sight of the Palamidi Castle. The two kids showed amazing perseverance (ok, so the parents pitted them against each other as Little Z detests walking) and managed to climb up the steep steps up AND down. There are approximately 1000 steps to the very top. I managed to achieve the incredible feat of spraining my ankle twice days apart. Argh! I've been up the Palamidi castle twice now so I doubt I'll make another trip up anytime soon. The view from the top is absolutely incredible.

Bourtzi Fortress

We arrived on Good Friday and the locals were busy preparing for the Easter weekend. Many flocked to the church, lighting candles as they walked in. We would've loved to attend but my Greek was barely passable.

We met a lovely gentleman, Mr Stamakis who owns a high end menswear store. I couldn't believe my eyes when he pulled out a CCC by Canterbury of New Zealand sweater. Growing up in Christchurch, CCC stores were everywhere and I thought nothing of it. I had no idea that it's considered a somewhat luxury brand outside of New Zealand.

The weather has been rather dismal since our arrival. We were all heavily wrapped up in our sweaters, scarves and coats. Bleh. On a more positive note, despite the fact that we were shivering under our heavy attire, watching the sunset on the waterfront is an experience to be remembered.

Travel: Hydra

Hydra is one of 7 islands which form the Saronic Archipelago lying just a short distance from Athens. Catamarans ply the waters several times a day between Pireaus, the main port of call in Athens and Hydra. The trip takes no more than 1.5 hours or approximately 3 hours if you prefer the ferries. As the locals love to remind me, "it's quicker to jump on a catamaran and get to Hydra than it is to go from one end of Athens to another".

Hydra has been invaded by the Dorians, colonised by the Venetians and Ottoman Empire, experienced prosperity only to lose a large number of their population to the plague, suffered an economic crisis when they lost their maritime position and famine during the onset of World War 2. These days, the island is certainly the playground of the rich and famous with beautifully renovated mansions dotted along the harbor which serve as summer homes for the Athenians. You'll see more Athenians converging on the island during Easter and summer holidays than foreigners. Super yachts moored by the harbor while the owners hop down to do some shopping or get a bite to eat. The tasteful shops mainly cater to the locals and fellow Athenians.

We left on Good Friday the same day the Prime Minister of Greece was reported to arrive in his personal yacht. On one hand, some of the locals are proud that he has chosen to visit Hydra regularly. On the other, the politicians are treated with derision with their burgeoning wealth due to widespread corruption. One of the shop owners I've spoken to mentioned that tourism has dropped dramatically since the introduction of euros making it an expensive holiday destination.

Other than garbage trucks, vehicles are banned on the island. Kids are free to race about and the only thing they have to watch out for are donkeys or ponies and poos (I kid you not!). The islanders transport their supplies back and forth in carts or donkeys.

The island is tiny which I personally think is a good thing because one can easily explore it on foot.

Aside from the beautiful sunset overlooking the vast expanse of the ocean, views of the white washed houses and extremely friendly locals, I had the best baklava EVER (I've tasted plenty). The buttery filo pastry drenched with honey syrup was still crunchy inside with just the right amount of pistachio and walnut. Just so you know, I went back to the bakery 3 times in one day.

Travel: Athens

The flight from London via Easyjet was surprisingly smooth. Parents with kids aged 5 and under were given priority boarding. The pilot gave an impressive performance landing the plane with nary a bump and was given a rousing applause by passengers.

Athens, as I remembered from 14 years ago is vastly different and in some ways, oddly similar. It is still as chaotic as ever with graffiti sprayed on any blank surfaces not witholding important ancient sites. Newly refurbished buildings with barely dried paint weren't spared either.

 




Previously, it was mostly the Albanians seeking refuge and the families I knew would employ them as labourers at their orchards. These days, the new wave of immigrants come from Pakistan, Somalia and Iraq with dissimilar religious beliefs. I met a Pakistani immigrant who works near Thessaloniki but was on a short break with his friends in Athens. He told me that things aren't all that well in Greece especially with the recession. His firm used to employ 170 and recently retrenched all but 10. There are now well over 60 000 Pakistanis residing in Greece. When asked why his family settled in this country, he divulged that the educated ones would choose countries such as the UK, Australia and New Zealand whilst the rest had to make do with Greece and Spain.

Acropolis was a disappointment to say the least. The female officials at the Agora decided to shut the place down at 3pm without any explanation thereby closing the main route to the Acropolis. The young man at the ticket counter was mystified to find so many angry customers bearing down on him. After  much gesturing, shouting and the what I call "I don't give a damn" universal shrug, we were told to go through a different entry point only to be turned away and the whole process began again. By the time we managed to get to the Acropolis, it was almost it was late afternoon but the view from the top made it all worthwhile. As far as I can remember, the scaffolding is part of the relic attached to the Parthenon. At the rate they're going, it'll be another 50 years before the restoration is completed.

Silly me managed slip on a curb onto a busy road and sprain my ankle in full view of the cars. The great thing about traveling with a doctor is you'll never be short of medication, painkillers in particular.

My nephew hates walking and if given the opportunity will gladly choose to vegetate in his stroller. My brother came up with an ingenious idea by telling the kids that the Agora and Acropolis are ancient playgrounds. The kids took off on a run and a field day climbing up and down the hill with their unfit parents save hubby who's very fit huffing and puffing trailing behind.

Little Brother with his son. My brother is one of those really cheerful individuals who wake up smiling and cracks jokes albeit REALLY strange ones all day long which I truly appreciate AFTER I have my coffee first.

The kids decided to pretend that they were on a modeling shoot. Hmmm.... time to stop watching America's Next Top model when Little L's about.

The kids are like locusts and require food every hour. We decided to pop into this restaurant which apparently has been in business since 1895. Note the photo with a lady in white suit. She's Queen Sofia of Spain.

Little Brother wanted to try the typical Greek cuisine meaning the standard fare - moussaka, gyros, stifado.